The Anti-Fascist Trail: Day 4, 19 July 2018: Flensburg to Rendsburg (80 km; 204 km in total)

2018 07 19 Flensburg to Rendsburg

Today was our opportunity to get food patterns sorted, especially since we had German country food upon which to draw. For some reason, German bicycle routes seem to go extraordinarily well with German food and beer. I at least burn up a lot of energy and need to be replenished regularly: a big German breakfast, with its eggs, oats, yoghurt, bread rolls and cheese. If we had a buffet, we would select more than enough; if a set table, I would eat everything on the table, even the sliced meats. Why? Normally, I am a vegetarian, but without the regular sources of protein (beans, wholemeal rice, tofu and so on) I had to do as the Germans do – when in the village, follow the local customs. Charged up and a little overfull after breakfast, I had enough reserves to last until lunch.


Lunch was at a Gastäte in Schleswig. Buying lunch like this was an exception, since normally we bought food for the day and would stop where needed: breads, satchels of jam and honey from breakfast, grapefruit, cucumber and bananas – endless bananas. Later, I found the blissful ‘Ice Coffee’ muesli bars in Aldi and we hit upon the wonderfully refreshing combination of sour cherry drink and mineral water – a litre of each was mixed and gone in one sitting.


From Flensburg to Schleswig, we rode alone the Ochsenweg. Through ancient forest, along farm tracks and through villages it went. I pondered older ideas of what counted as roads. One clearly needed regular stops for the night, every 20 kilometres or so, and food had to be plentiful. Guard posts too were a constant feature – back then, at least (they are gone now). A hill and a twist are no problems, for one is going at horse or walking pace. Like us, really. So no need for straight roads along which one can speed along.


Except if it is hot and dry, like today. After Schleswig, we decided to pick up the paved bicycle path along the ‘77’ route. Straight from Schleswig to Rendsburg it went. Settle into a rhythm, tired though you might be, and the kilometres tick by.


At Rendsburg, we were gone. All that was left was to dig out Hotel Tüxen, along the twists and turns of the town and under a glorious railway overpass. At 80 Euro it was a little over our budget but relatively modest for the coastal regions in high holiday mode. The massive German meal, with its glorious salad (with some content, as Germans like) and Bauernfrüstuck, are my favourites. The latter’s basis is an omelette-like slab loaded with potatoes and onions. It may have some extras, but it hits the spot as no other food – when on a German bicycle route.


We slept almost 10 hours.