After a week on the Ochsenweg and the holiday areas of Schleswig-Holstein, we were keen to get to the actual Anti-Fascist Trail. This morning we mapped our own way eastward from Bad Bramstedt to Bad Oldesloe, following quiet roads and local trails.
Hot, dry and a Sunday – meaning there were few if any places open to get some food and drink. The Germans have stuck resolutely to the ‘day of rest’ tradition, refusing the pressure from capitalist enterprises to make a profit at any time of day and night. Occasionally, one might find a baker open until lunchtime, where we able to stock up on bread rolls and pastry.
On we rode, drawing nigh to Bad Oldesloe and the train we wished to catch to Travemünde. A sprint for the last 15 kilometres suddenly stopped with a puncture in one of her tyres: a pinched tube from bike-fitting before she bought it. I repaired the tube while she cooled down. The next train would be fine. Once again the value of the Brompton showed itself. In 30 seconds I had it folded and in a soft bag, ready to carry on the train and not worry about a bicycle ticket. Hers required such a ticket.
Travemünde – the port for the old headquarters of the Hanseatic League in Lübeck. Cute painted houses around the old town, ships still coming and going, and a sea of semi-naked solid bodies seeking the sea itself. Not for us, not even the FKK – Freikorporkultur.
We were more than keen to pick up the Anti-Fascist Trail. After crossing on the ferry, we pedalled into eastern Germany. Here it was far more peaceful. We celebrated the notices about landlords who has were deprived of their estates by the communists. Poor things. Fancy having to give up your collection of villages and many servants to flee to the west.
We enjoyed the village of Dassow and its twisting streets – so much so that we found ourselves back in town a few kilometres later. The few ‘Iron Curtain Trail’ signs, which had pointed us on our way from Travemünde, rapidly disappeared, with the last one sending us in a circle back to the village. Already it was clear the German states (which are responsible for bicycle routes) do not see the ‘ICT’ as something to promote.
And already we had to map our own way. Our destination, the guesthouse Nobis Krug, was still some distance away. It was getting a little late and we had already ridden 73 kilometres (52 to Bad Oldesloe and 21 from Travemünde to Dassow). We opted to use the often unreliable ‘google maps’ and turn on the annoying voice. Through farms, sand tracks, cobbles and rough stones it took us – for 27 kilometres. At the end I could see our destination and yet the annoying voice said to go in another direction. I turned it off, gratefully.
The village was barely a few houses, the glacier-formed lake a relief and Nobis Krug a place you could stay for a week, even at 69 Euro a night (including breakfast). The beers and the Bauernfrüstuck were even more welcoming. As was the bed and ten hours sleep.